1.75 mm Copper Metal HTPLA filamentProto-pasta
New Copper Metal HTPLA: prints like plastic, but finishes like real metal for beautiful, durable parts from most standard 3D printers. So many finishing possibilities with different techniques!
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Composite HTPLA filament with copper powder.
COPPER IS ABRASIVE.
For experienced user.
Copper can be abrasive, you can use a standard nozzle or a wear resistant nozzle for extended use. A 0.6 mm nozzle or larger is preferred, but you can print also with a 0.4 mm nozzle. There is not enough copper to be electrically conductive, sintered, or plated, but there is a noticeable difference in weight and heat transfer compared to a standard PLA.
- Many finishing: brush, polish or patina!
- Real copper powder inside!
- Easy to print
- Optimal layer adhesion
- Exceptional quality and consistent flow
- Not electrically conductive
- No heated bed required
- Usable on most PLA compatible printers
|Nominal diameter||1.75 mm|
|Printing temperature||85-215 °C|
|Temperature resistance||50-60 °C, 140 °C if treated|
- Wire Brush: to expose metal for future oxidation or a bright, satin finish
- Rock tumble with steel shot: for darker, but smooth, shiny look
- Paint part (black for example): to fill recesses with a contrasting color
- Polish with a rotary tool, cotton buff, and polishing compound: for a bright, mirror finish on high spots (darkens low spots)
- Polish with paper: for a clean, smooth, and bright finish with less darkening
- Patina (oxidize): exposed metal naturally or accelerate with a 50/50 vinegar/hydrogen peroxide mixture saturated with salt. Place in sealed plastic bag to retain moisture. Heat further accelerates reaction.
Copper Metal HTPLA can print at 185-215 °C, hottest on first layer for best adhesion. Heated bed is not required, but if available set it from 0 to 60 °C max (over 60 °C can worsen warp). Recommended print speed: 20-80 mm/s. Standard build surface preparation like blue tape or glue stick work best along with slow (10-20 mm/s) and hot first layer for best adhesion. For a balance among quality, reliability, and productivity a layer thickness of 0.15-0.20mm is recommended.
This material has been flow optimized and has less moisture uptake than standard PLAs, however composites are still sometimes more tricky to print depending on hardware and software settings. The main challenge is to keep mass flow up (larger nozzle + fast speed) and in a single direction (minimal retraction) to avoid heat soak.
Faux brick or clay, fixtures or hardware, knobs or buttons, heat sinks or exchangers, fine art & sculpture, emblems, signage, or trophies, Jewelry, cosplay, game pieces, or figurines
How to do "Heat Treatment"
Bake your parts into a oven until you see a change from translucent to opaque. There is an obvious visual change indicating the improved performance!
In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts and as much a few hours for massive parts, HTPLA parts crystallize in an oven at 110C +/- 10 °C to become more stiff. We recommend leaving the supports on your parts, placing them on a non-radiating surface (like glass, ceramic, or composite), and letting them cool in the oven to minimize distortion. Parts can be baked at a lower temperature (though must be above 60 °C for any change to occur) for a longer time with less risk of unwanted deformation.
When you anneal a material like PLA materials it means that the plastic will continue to harden when exposed to low but consistent heat. Annealing will cause any 3d printed objects to temper, making it significantly less brittle and extremely tough. If done correctly, annealed parts will be resistant to warping, and maintain its original shape and structure.
Best results are with flat and/or supported parts with 100% infill. In this instance we experienced x/y shrinkage of 1.5% and z growth of 1%. These are only indicative parameters, which may vary depending on the type of specific print and process.
Due to all the different types of hot-end it's extremely difficult to give a temperature advice. Please consider these tips, provided by the manufacturer, as a starting point to find the temperatures that work well in your setup. You may have to adjust the temperature settings slightly based on your type of printer.