1.75 mm Magnetic Iron PLA filament, BlackProto-pasta
Magnetic Iron PLA is a compound of Natureworks 4043D PLA and finely ground iron powder. This filament responds to magnets and behaves similarly to pure iron, even to the point of rusting! Magnets will stick to your prints!
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Magnetic Iron filament in black.
MAGNETIC IRON IS ABRASIVE.
This filament is more abrasive than standard PLA. Prolonged use may result in accelerated nozzle wear.
Iron is defined as “magnetic” but it is, more accurately speaking, ferromagnetic. In short, magnets stick to it. So, you should note that magnets stick to prints made from Magnetic Iron PLA, but printed objects will not function as magnets. It is called Magnetic Iron PLA to communicate that this material allows users to include the added benefits of magnetism when designing and printing 3D objects.
- Weighted feel with 1.5x the density of standard PLA
- Rustable to create modern artifacts in a few easy steps
- Attracts magnets (neodymium type recommended for strongest attraction)
- Induction at magnetic saturation about 0.15 Tesla
- Relative (to air) Permeability - between 5 and 8 independent of frequency up to 1 MHz
- Permeability - between 62E-7 and 100E-7 H/m independent of frequency up to 1 MHz
- More thermally conductive than standard plastic
- No heated bed required
|Nominal diameter||1.75 mm|
|Break resistance||similar to PLA|
|Printing temperature||185-195 °C|
Processing is comparable to standard PLA. If you print with a heated bed (if available, is not required) set the temperature at about 50° C. Due to increased brittleness, process may be less consistent on smaller nozzles and/or bowden type machines. Good results were achieved when printing at 185C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. Quick cooling seems to increase the tendency to warp, so you might try turning your fan off and slowing your printer down a bit.
To rust a print made with Magnetic PLA, lightly abrade the surface of your print with a wire brush to expose more iron particles to the air, then submerge the print in a salty solution for 2-3 days (or longer, if you're going for a very rusty look!).
Due to all the different types of hot-end it's extremely difficult to give a temperature advice. Please consider these tips, provided by the manufacturer, as a starting point to find the temperatures that work well in your setup. You may have to adjust the temperature settings slightly based on your type of printer.